Sailing into Vava’u is a bit like the approach to Stockholm which also has an archipelago. We slowly pass many islands, our wake so gentle as the pilot expertly guides us in. We enjoy al-fresco breakfast, after which time those on tour have already left the ship and we have no queue for a tender, it’s just straight on. 

We had intended to walk to three distinct sections of the island, but in fact we got distracted and only ticked off one of those, but discovered other things instead!

Our arrival is celebrated today by the school band, who play Christmas carols – we’ve not got used to the idea Christmas is just around the corner. 

The weather today is very hot, and the most humid we’ve experienced, and within minutes we’re dripping. Walking South past the shops, restaurants and hotels, many still derelict after the tsunami, we are going to the end of this island, where there’s a small village. 

At the bridge we have a lovely chat with a local man who’s brought last night’s catch down to the lagoon to gut it. He’s so nice, he tells us the local names of the three fish, but he doesn’t know the English equivalent and how he catches them with just line and hook – pretty much how we’ve done it in the Maldives and Amazon. On our return we pass him again and he wants to share his catch with us, which we sadly decline – not sure what chef would say if we brought some random fillets back!

We head off to a small freshwater cave we’ve read about, but the graffiti and cloudy water put us off the idea of taking a dip. 

A back-road takes us past the local quarry, and then we drop down over the other side of the island to where another lagoon forms quite a large bay. A deserted school looks quite creepy with rows of dusty desks in the empty classrooms. 

We pass the new senior school and get befriended by a puppy – stray dogs are everywhere and it’s not the first time this cruise one has tried very hard to get adopted! 

Our plans to walk up to the nearby viewpoint are cancelled, it’s just too heavy going, so we plot a route back to the tender and home. 

The afternoon brings a very scenic departure from the atoll, we see evidence of whales blowing in the distance but none are close enough. Meanwhile Purple Rain is the cocktail of the afternoon.

In the evening we eat al-fresco again, but our table is far too near the dance floor so we beat a hasty retreat before the band strikes up. It is wonderful to see some of the kitchen staff, housekeepers and waiters are invited, for a while anyway, to join in the fun!

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