Naha is the capital of Okinawa, one of the more southerly islands of the Japanese chain. It has a population of only a third of a million but feels much larger, certainly when walking around. 

We pass a cute beach just round the corner from where we have parked, before heading into the city to check on some impressive looking buildings, the city hall, prefecture offices and the police HQ. These are merely en passant but interesting.

Next we schlep on to our the first intended destination, the former royal gardens created around the end of C17 which contain a “modest” villa of about 30 rooms! It’s all very elegant and the lake sets if off beautifully, including a hexagonal pavilion connected by two small bridges. 

Our next stop is the royal mausoleum, which has housed the royal remains from 1501 to 1920. Again quite a walk so we need sustenance as we pass Family Mart – we can go straight to the correct isle now! The machinery for tendering money and receiving one’s change is amazing, I suppose it totally removes the option for mistakes, passing on germs and of course is completely secure. (Photo is from 7-11 earlier.)

On the way we pass through an area with the biggest graveyard we have ever witnessed. Moreover these above-ground tombs are right by the roadside, unlike other other cities where we have seen similar sights but enclosed by walls, such as the iconic Buenos Aries and New Orleans examples. 

Right next to the mausoleum is the remains of the Shuri Castle, a sprawling collection of huge walls, gardens and right in the middle is the half-completed restoration of the North Hall. This will be absolutely spectacular when finished, but even now is fabulous – to be able to witness the renovation is quite special.

We start to head back to the port, although we have specific plans as we return, first is the pottery district. Getting there is via a vast labyrinth of ginnels which span the neighbourhoods like mycelium. 

Eventually we are at the potteries, where every shop is selling bowls, cups and lions – sweet, ugly, ferocious, even just grumpy.

After this we find the shopping streets that have been turned into arcades with glazed roofing, it’s all very busy and colourful. We divert to the fish market briefly before finishing our return journey to Quest. 

By sailaway the wind has got up and it’s getting cold, but we brave it on deck nine with champagne, so as to ensure that we enjoy Kate and Dustin singing their classical show, it’s a lovely collection of everyone’s favourites from Funiculi Funicula to Nessun Dorma. 

We sail past a former Costa Mediterránea ship now owned by the curiously constructed Chinese division of Carnival, who actually own only a minority shareholding. She sailed here from the extraordinary city of Xiamen, and is returning directly there.

After showering and dressing for dinner we stop off for a cocktail at Patio Grill, then descend to MDR to enjoy gruyer & pear tarte, tuna carpaccio; tomato bisque, duck consommé; lamb; Grand Marnier soufflé, all excellent. 

Lastly we enjoyed the second performance from Timeless Tenors. Their choice of music was excellent, from movie classics through traditional classics and ending with You’ll Never Walk Alone from Carousel. 

Embarrassed to say we witnessed people leaving in front of us who were incapable of saying “thank you” to these delightful young men, as they exited the Grand Salon.

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