We should be tendering into Dubrovnik, but we learned last night that we are berthing instead. We’ve done both previously so don’t mind either way.
It’s a six of one, half a dozen of the other situation since the modern(ish) port is a little out of town, but then that means we’ll do more miles today. We need to take breakfast in our balcony as we want to get walking before the patio grill opens.
Our walk in is just two miles, and then we’re at the Pile Gate, the one at nine o’clock looking at the town from above. We have our tickets (pre-bought) scanned and we’re on the wall, waking anti-clockwise from above. I can’t remember if it was Jayne McDonald or Susan Calman who’s show featured this, but as soon as we saw it we had to do the walk. It takes around an hour and isn’t really very difficult despite their protestations (whichever one it was!) The views over the islands, back to the mainland and also over the old town are fabulous.
Once we’re back at Pile Gate we then descend into the old town and start again, working our way around all the must-see places, even those we don’t recognise because they are Game of Thrones related, which we’re never watched. The alleyways littered with tables and chairs from restaurants spilling out, churches everywhere, some smart looking hotels, even a Michelin one rosette is built into the walls, but the prices are horrendous, not that we’re even considering lunch. In fact we don’t buy ice-cream at the first choice because €7 per boule is disgraceful, it’s half that at another place we find.
We complete our exploration and head back towards home, but do so a longer way back to enjoy new-to-us neighbourhoods and a bit more of the marina before arriving for a late lunch.
As ever, a leisurely(ish) afternoon leads us towards shower-time, but we break this to return for the last company sailaway before they all go home for Venice in two days, next week it will be a different ship’s company. They sing mostly operatic, from classic arias to more modern songbook rep but in keeping with the style, it’s a wonderful performance.
We return to dress for dinner, tonight we’re attending a wine dinner which is right up on the top deck, number 12, where the extra-cost cabañas are to be found. Here’s the review I wrote for publication elsewhere, just edited for family and friends perspective:
“Tonight we attended this special dinner, with curated wine pairings in the retreat. On the smaller ships we usually use they are held on deck five aft.
We start with a cocktail, and an introduction to the food from Chef and the wines from the head sommelier before sitting down at our tables arranged around the cabañas. There are no canapés and very little time to socialIse with our fellow diners or the conspicuously missing senior management.
The first course translates to Moscow Apple, which doesn’t do it justice, a very sweet potato with creamed topping and caviar on top, served with Pol Roget’s cuvé Winston Churchill, equally one of the most iconic and yet overrated champagnes, in my humble opinion.
Next up is chicken parfait with passionfruit jelly and caramelised onion ciabatta. This is an excellent course, and matched with Santorini sweet wine is stunning.
We move onto yellowtail kingfish ceviche, matched with a Sancerre which doesn’t really work, perhaps neither is to blame but the combination is fighting for attention and both are failing.
Main is a cool fillet, despite the blowtorch we witness being wielded by the assistant chef in charge, it’s very windy up top! It is served with a mushroom duxcell and topped with a quenelle of beef confit. Whilst we love a good fillet there’s too much onboard so it’s not as special as it should be. The puréed parsnip is lovely. This is admirably paired with Joseph Phelp’s Insignia which we have to say is a fabulous Napa wine. We have no doubts about this pairing, with unctuous notes of vanilla, tobacco, chocolate and blackcurrants.
Pudding raises the game significantly with lime tart, dulce de leche and some lush chocolate kisses. This time we’re presented with Kracher’s trockenbeerenauslese which we know is a fabulous pudding wine.
So whilst dinner is good it isn’t perfect. What is really lacking, apart from the few foodie notes, is the theatre – the assembled staff did a fabulous job, but Chef didn’t bother to do a table check. The Hotel Director didn’t show. We watched as someone started to take away the serving tables whilst we were still enjoying our puddings! Two out of the four big lamps weren’t working. Simple things can keep one’s customers happy.“
As you can imagine that set the vultures circling, and I’ve had to block quite a few ugly people today, but there’s no point being all smarmy if the ship doesn’t deliver to the max. When I think about some of the astonishing events we’ve played a part in over the last few decades with our ballet cognoscenti, both me and hubby do know what we’re talking about.
We finish with another deck party but safely one floor up so we don’t get dragged into dance!
