We’re in our middle day of three in French Polynesia. I suppose we should visit the politics of the region, which since the middle C19 has been owned, unsurprisingly, by France. It makes a change not to be embarrassed by British colonialism, and we enjoy our innocent bystander status. Nowadays it’s a protectorate of France.
Today it’s the main island of Tahiti, which is far too large to consider walking round, and so we have booked a car instead.
Firstly, during breakfast we note that a container has arrived, hopefully with some of the things we’ve managed to consume rather faster than we should, such as Pelegrino, and one of the Chardonnays. We also spot a team of divers so presumably our beloved Odyssey is getting her bottom scrubbed today.
Our plan starts with a walk to the airport. Only 3.6 miles, although it feels so much more in the heat and humidity. As we walk we are amused to be waved at by a passing cyclist, and even more so when we recognise it’s our dear captain.
We enjoy the nearby park and views over to the colourful cranes opposite. By the time we reach the airport we are resolved to take a taxi back, not part of our original plan.
Heading anti-clockwise today, we are horrified by how busy the traffic is, indeed in our first hour we manage about 20km, but it slowly thins out. Our first stop is a marae, a place of meeting or worship.
Like Bora Bora but on a much larger scale, there is one road circumnavigating the island, and heading inland is thwarted by the dense jungle. Here the bonus is huge water-courses everywhere that create spectacular waterfalls and gardens, so our next visit is a group of three grottes with gorgeous vegetation and fantastic falls.
After the grottes we arrive at a water garden, very well organised with more lovely features, unfortunately it’s raining hard by now and whilst we make the tour it’s a bit shortened.
After a stop at Carrefour to pick up a lunch, we hit our last waterfall, where it’s double value. It’s also lovely to see locals enjoying themselves in the powerful fall. We enjoy our gorgeous baguette by the water’s edge.
Having already seen the Route Barre signs and decided to ignore them, we are finally defeated by a huge fenced section which leaves no doubt that we cannot continue our circumnavigation, and so we turn around and backtrack.
This time the traffic is relatively calm and we’re soon three quarters round the island and ready to complete our tour with the final destination of a C19 lighthouse which is still in use.
After returning the car to the airport we do indeed take a taxi back and get dropped off near the port, adjacent to the cathedral. We note the divers have finally finished.
This evening we have a very special dinner, actually it’s the wind that is special as we have seven pairings to match the menu, each from a premium house. This means that we are paying for our wine for the first time ever on Seabourn, but to get these kind of bottles open does mean additional costs – here’s my review:
We are on deck 5 aft enjoying canapés and a welcome cocktail, chatting with the few other foodies we know, including our next door neighbours and their friends.
The premise is simple, a showcase dinner with matched wines, served in an intimate environment at the rear of the club. Large flats block off the deck either side to hide the staff coming and going, and make this a very cosy and special occasion.
Three starters – shrimp ceviche, beef tartare and mushroom cappuccino – are each excellent, and paired well.
Two mains – salmon and lamb – are both fabulous, their pairings getting very serious and we particularly enjoy the Opus One but that’s not to say any of the French have disappointed.
Next chef serves from the cheeseboard which is accompanied by a very good port, and finally we join our lovely neighbours for pudding in the form of an exquisite spun sugar, panacotta and berry confection along with a premium Kracher.
In all a fantastic evening, food and wine undoubtedly wonderful, superb attentive staff as always and a delightful live guitar throughout by Leo from the Trio.
