Danube 2025 – day 13 – Thu 17/07

We enter Slovakia overnight. After breakfast we get some laps in around the deck. It’s funny that Viking tells us we must walk in the opposite direction to perceived convention. Interestingly most customers seem to know this and ignore the instruction – if you haven’t come across it, the convention is to walk anti-clockwise when looking at the vessel from above.

As we approach our next city, we have to pass through a lock. There are only four in the entire journey, and we don’t know if the Iron Gate’s two count as one or two. The Danube locks are huge, and we fit in comfortably with another boat, and there appears to be enough room for another in the middle, although I doubt it would be safe to operate this way. The lower gates are like we expect to see a lock, with barn doors. The upper gate is more like a sleeping policeman that sinks down below our keel to allow passage, once the water level has equalised.

During lunch we arrive into Bratislava, a happy reunion for us, as we have been before both on a boat, Emerald Star which happens to be parked here today too, and then for performances we attended to support our friend Dan who created two productions for Slovakian National Ballet. 

Our walking tour is just around the old town, where we look at some gorgeous old buildings, visit C13 St Martin’s cathedral which has seen many kings coronated over it’s long history, mostly Hungarian. We move on but very heavy rain comes and we have to shelter for a while, although our guide is able to continue explaining things. We finish with a hurried walk through the town square and back towards the boat. We foolishly decide, now the rain is past, to go alone, but the rain comes back so we also return. 

Half an our later we try again and walk to the new theatre just for old time’s sake, getting back just as the heavens open once again. 

It’s going to be a scrum situation to reserve our dinner table tonight, so I shower and dress very early and get sat down writing and photo-ing quickly. Again this is becuase there ar only 16 covers in the coveted Aquavit section. 

We experience a frustrating 75 minutes when the bar is closed because there is entertainment on. Whilst it is laudable to not disturb the performers they should provide service from an alternative area. More frustrating is that when we watched the flautist / pianist two nights ago an officer was serving and making plenty of noise when it was inappropriate. A very poor showing for Viking management on this issue. 

We have one of the best dinners of the cruise: local favourite Bryndzové Halušky (gnocchi and sheep cheese,) rack of lamb and Medový krémes so slahackou (honey cake.)

We decide to take a final stroll around town, complete with umbrella for insurance purposes. We just retrace our earlier walk, taking in the gorgeous old town, chatting with fellow customers Tom and Matt, enjoying the excited hustle and bustle of people having a good time. 

I find some awesome AF1s, but resist making a purchase.