We start by picking up our friends Jaqs and Mike from their house in the next village. Traffic is bad in Los Cristianos, and we barely meet the “arrive 40 minutes early” criterion the ticket stipulates. However this is Spain, so nobody else is on time either and we are waiting ages before we board the Bentago Express, the dedicated catamaran tasked with ferrying people between Los Cristianos and Puerto de la Estaca on El Hierro. 

The sea  is quite bumpy, but we do our Spanish lessons, and get lunch to while away the 150 minute journey, enjoying the sail past La Gomera‘s Eastern coast roughly half way. We reminisce about our two adventures there in 2024. 

On landing we head North taking the coastal road past the island’s airport, and on to Tamaduste where we park then look around this small town, before finding the trail which is our intended route. 

Our walk across the lava takes us on a winding pathway cut by rangers to form a safe passage across the torturous and lethal terrain that all lava flows create. Don’t ever think about wandering off-piste, not only is it illegal it’s also suicidal – within moments one would be open to broken ankles and legs, and life-changing lacerations! 

Our walk terminates at Playa los Puentes, a wonderful cobbled beach with ragged outcrops all around. We back-track to the car and then head back to find the Parador, quietly situated in a bay about 20km to the south. 

After unpacking it’s only right we enjoy a drink in the bar, or more specifically on the patio. Later we shower, dress for dinner and then find the dining room. Dinner is fabulous – the food, the wine and the company make for an excellent first evening on El Hierro. 

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