Today is the day we embark on the boat, which because of the Danube’s very low levels is moored upstream of the canal and delta where we should be. Our guide today tells us that overnight they considered having to retreat inland another 100 miles, however that has not been necessary.
Before we leave Bucharest we take a final wander down past the palace, and also find that the Cathederal has created a mini version whilst the renovation is taking place. We go in but it doesn’t feel appropriate to photograph inside whilst people are praying.
We return and jump on the bus to head to Turnu Măgurele where the Viking Kadlin is waiting. The journey is expected to be 2½ hours. Throughout the journey phones all around the bus are buzzing as national emergency notices warn of the ensuing heatwave.
We board, check out our room then go looking for luncheon. We find the Aquavit terrace, which is at the bow of the boat, and after excellent amuses, enjoy a burger and pasta complete with a BBQ salmon on the side in the blazing heat – so hot the cutlery is unmanageable and our waiter fetches new ones from inside. Pear tart and After Eight ice cream finish lunch nicely accompanied by a tasty Chardonnay.
Turnu Măgurele has a really run-down dock area, which we park adjacent to, so we go for a wander downstream, past the rusting cranes, the crumbling conveyors, and on to some rough ground, where a few people are playing in the Danube. We hit a natural drain, and decide that’s enough so turn around, backtrack and then head upstream a while until we come to the ferry ramp across the Danube, which forms another insurmountable obstacle.
Given that it’s 40°+ and real-feel is ever more, we consider our three and a bit miles is an ample sufficiency for the day, and return to Kadlin. A zero shandy seems appropriate and we return with it to our cabin to do a little work.
Our departure time is 16:45 so we head up onto the top deck to watch our sailaway, just us, the Captain and a couple of deck-hands. Our journey consists of about half a mile, as we break free from the Bolero parked next to us, and then gently cross from the left bank to the right bank, in doing so we change country from Romania to Bulgaria. The staff secure us to the pontoon at Nikopol, from where tomorrow’s adventures will start.
There is the inevitable welcome aboard event tonight so all 190 customers are squozed into the lounge, which is pushing things a bit, however we get to see the Captain, Chef, cruise director, hotel manager and a couple more significant members of staff, and toast them and our journey. Shortly after, the CD announces that dinner is served and the swathes all rush to get into the dining room. We strategically hang back, and thence head forwards to Aquavit again, to secure our alfresco dining table.
Of course we won’t be able to do this every night, but whenever we can we would rather dine outside, and the two waiters already know us and our tastes, so it’s the optimal solution.
We go for Cæsar and sour chicken soup starters, followed by chateaubriand, and finish with Torta Garach, Bulgarian chocolate cake. It’s all very good, and we pair with Petit Chablis and Bulgarian Syrah, both excellent. Just as we’re finishing our pudding the heavens open and we are treated to an exciting thunderstorm which goes on to rage for several hours.
Back inside we chat with the Texans and North Carolinians we met yesterday, and two Londoners, the only other Brits onboard apparently, we’re not sure if they approved of being with Yorkshiremen!
