Doesn’t everyone recognise that classic photograph of a helicopter on the roof, as the last Americans leave Saigon? If you’ve seen that, or of course the same scene from the musical Miss Saigon, it’s an unforgettable and iconic moment.
We are up early yet again, to be driven to Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon. We’re lucky because it’s Sunday and the roads, as rough as they are, at least are empty. We arrive sooner than expected and get out at the crazy market, of which more later. This time it’s just to visit the Happy Room – aka toilet!
We have our plan, which fortunately or perhaps unsurprisingly matches closely with the one given to us by the local guide who is accompanying us on the coach into the capital.
We came here over 16 years ago but it’s definitely worth a repeat visit. Whilst we don’t pretend to know much about the complexities of the Viet Nam war and the US involvement, the reality is that this is memorable because it happened in our lifetimes, albeit somewhat dim and distant.
We start by walking to the presidential palace, which is where some people believe that helicopter photo was taken but that’s not true. It is fascinating however, to see the Art Deco building and contents, and wander around the rooms which fifty years ago were the hub of the civil war. From the presidential suite to formal meeting rooms to the war-bunker underneath it is all very interesting.
Next we cross the road to the War Museum, several US aircraft scattered around the building which houses a comprehensive retrospective of the war, from the eyes of the soldiers, the press photographers, and the innocent bystanders. The statistics are horrendous – 58,000 US personnel and over a million Viet people died during this war, the depravation and cruelty is mind-numbing. We find that we cannot read any more, it’s just too horrific, we have to leave.
Back to normal tourism, we walk past the cathedral which is under repair, the post office, and on to book street, all famous tourist locations. In need of lunch we let Mr JW Marriot provide for us, after three Viet lunches it’s time for something more familiar, and a club sandwich seems like the best solution.
Then we’re back to our route, the opera house, which sadly we cannot get into, the amazing town hall, and Rex Hotel next door, again Art Deco. Then we walk past the Pittman Building, which is the actual location of the infamous helicopter photo – this was the CIA’s offices in Saigon and the site of the last ever evacuation flight. The trees are very overgrown now but a careful examination of the photos confirms the story.
Finally, we wander down to the river, past spectacular new buildings and narrowly escaping death by scooter, we see the vista of new-build tower blocks that show just how much the country has moved on in a relatively short time.
The heavens open as we are returning, but we are prepared so it’s no problem, but it does mean we’re 20 minutes early for our bus so dare to venture into the market. It’s basically a snake-oil vendors paradise, and catching the eye of a market trader effectively means one is not leaving until having parted with money! Mark wanted shorts, and ended up with three quality pairs at a pretty good price but it was quite a fight.
Meanwhile, I had a crazy conversation with another trader but came out unscathed, financially at least – I was pawed repeatedly, this lady had quite a desire to feel me up. We had noticed this over the last few days, and on conversation with fellow travellers, it seems that groping is very common, six packs (not me obvs!) biceps, triceps and selected other muscle groups being the favoured places. And it isn’t just the ladies, our young-man coach driver was just as friendly!
The return drive passes without hitch and we’re back in time to perform normal duties like canapés. Dinner tonight is fabulous – lobster bisque and lettuce wedge; lamb; crème brûlée.
